After much procrastinating today I tackled the steering vane disassembly. I spent some time doing a little research on some idea on how to get the thing apart. I went to the hardware store and bought a spray can of liquid wrench, wire brush-head for my drill and a center punch. I sprayed every single place I could find something connected to something else with the liquid wrench. I also kept spraying when the first pass soaked in already. All of the allen grub screws came out and it finally started coming apart. A couple of details for anyone who is overhauling their own.
- A parts inventory is available for the standard vane gear, which is the model I am overhauling.
- Everything I point out was already explained on the rebuilding hints page for the most part. In hindsight I would have slowed down a little and read a little more on the hints. You might want to print out a copy of the parts list and assembly and possibly the hints while working on the vane.
- There are only about 81 parts. If you know how to work on bikes or small engines then this should be intuitive to you.
- None of the alloy tubes will disconnect from the joints. They are totally frozen. Don’t worry these do not need to be disassembled.
- The ‘Joint Block Pin – Plain End’ (parts #37) that appear to easily go through the alloy in one piece actually pull outward in two parts after loosening the allen grub screws on both ends of the connecting rod (part #38 in the inventory list).
- Spirol pins shown inside of tube are holding the lower bevel gear in place. These are not grub screws but go through both the gear and the ‘Stainless Servo Rudder Spindle’ (part #63). These should not be removed without having replacements and as far as I can tell, the rebuild kit does not offer a replacement, therefore should probably be left alone.
- The Stainless Servo Rudder Spindle needs to be removed from the ‘Servo Rudder Casting’ (part #60). The bushings need to be removed and all epoxy cleaned from the casting.
- The retaining collar attached at the bottom of the spindle has stripped grub screws from trying to break them loose. This will need to be removed by a saw or several screw holes and a chisel to cut the alloy sleeve in half.
- The fork end needs to be removed from the connecting rod (part #38) but there is also one in the rebuild kit.
Until the rebuild kit comes I’ll wire brush the cast alloy parts and clean the stainless parts with a solvent, complete the TBD and then wait. I’ll post a part 3 follow up once it’s all back together and then hopefully I can take it out and demonstrate how it actually works. I was impressed by how well this thing has held up. It has obviously been used quite a bit and the grease is totally dried out and there is a lot of corrosion but it came apart without too much fuss and in just a couple of hours.